Roads

Pictures of the church in Matuma

New Adventures 9-20-10

September 20, 2010 Monday

Yesterday we learned that in Uganda, the wife is supposed to kneel to her husband when she approaches him in a room. If the woman is older, she won’t kneel. The custom is fading, but still alive in many areas. Dowries are still paid, but they are a sign of appreciation to the bride’s family for raising her properly. Mostly, men have only two wives if they are living polygamy because you must have enough money to sustain two families.

The District leader here is a young man from Uganda. We traveled quite a distance with him, so we pumped him. When we showed “The Other Side of Heaven” to the elders a couple of weeks ago, he piped up and said, “Tonga is like Uganda. I have had my feet eaten by rats as well.” Yesterday, he said, “We have 36 tribes in Uganda. The Bantu and Niolites are the largest. Me, I can understand 6 languages, but I can’t get anything (understand anything) from the Niolites.” The Niolites are here in Kenya as well. They are descended from people of the Nile.

“We in Uganda look the same as Kenyans. Our borders are so close. When they had genocide in Rwanda, the people there fled to Uganda. There were so many. Now, it has been many years, and the Rwandans live among us and you can’t tell the difference when you see them. I was young when they had the genocide there. My people talk of bodies floating in the river because so many people died. There were dead bodies in the streets. I remember some, not all. These have assimilated into our culture now. We call them Rawdese.”

His South African companion said, “ we have brick houses, not like here. Our roads are of good quality. We do have the townships—slums where people have tin foil for their houses and no tarred roads. Apartheid has made many changes in South Africa. We had many protests, now we have much crime, but the police are trying to make it better. Before the police could not shoot until someone else shot first. Many policemen died, now it is changed. “

As we drove along, children walking along the side of the road waved and called to us. By that time, we had picked up two members who were walking along the road as well. The Sister we picked up said, “It is because the children think you look like Jesus Christ because you are white. That is why they call and wave to you.” The man we had picked up, corrected her and said, “Jesus Christ was not white, he was an Arab. They look brown.” She said, “That may be so, but the kids think the muzungos look like Christ. They think they are very good.” Boy, do we need to be better!

About that time, a woman clad all in yellow from head to foot passed by. “She is Church of Israel.” Then we saw a woman with a white neckerchief and white dress.” I asked if she was Church of Israel, too. “No, those kind are Quakers. You can tell because they wear the white dress and neckerchief.

We arrived at Church in good time, met with President B. He is pretty amazing, a tall, young, good-looking man with a young family. He is well-organized. If he had opportunities like in the states, he would be a business executive I think. We joined with his counselor, E. B. (no relative), and started out to drive what we thought would be 20 minutes out to Matuma (a dependent branch). The counselor was to preside . Their branch presidency take turns going out to Matuma each week.

It turned out to be more like 45 minutes over a terrible road with canyon craters to negotiate back and forth across the clay---no tarmac here. Often we left the road to take our chances in the "barrow pit" because the washes and cutaways were so deep, we were afraid we couldn’t make it out. It seemed forever to get out there.

We got to the church to find it is a deserted building converted to a Church. It had a dilapidated sign on the top that the owner of the building (he is LDS) proudly told us was a gift from God. They have no electricity, so, no music., but they had chairs set up and there were 7 people there. We discovered that the auxiliary meetings were first.

I went to Primary and sat in while the one teacher/president did the whole thing by herself. These folks are absolutely phenomenal…the things they do. She is a young woman with 3 children of her own. She and her husband are pioneers. They joined early when the Church first started. She tearfully told me how blessed they are that God is so good to them. She said when she first joined the Church, they used to walk to Sikhendhu (another branch in our area…miles from where they are now meeting). She said they walked carrying their food and baby from their home leaving at 5:45 AM to get to meeting at 10:00. Now, she said, “It only takes us about 2 hours.” The Lord is blessing us so much. We have so much to be thankful for to know the gospel is growing here.

Knowing that we are almost always called upon to take over in opening exercises of auxiliaries and to speak during sacrament, I try to go prepared with music and stories. This time, I took an old pillow slip, stuffed it with rags, tied an elastic around the neck and body, and made baby Moses. I didn’t have a basket, so I took a colander with slits in the sides and wove construction paper strips into the slits to approximate a basket. The kids, many of whom couldn’t speak English, did understand a “baby” because they do so much of the caring and toting of “babies”. I just cut up some copy paper and painted a face on it and taped it to the dummy. The kids were fascinated with the “Baby”. They don’t have anything even remotely like a doll. Kids here don’t “play” much that we can see. We see them climbing on things, but we don’t even see the wire hoola hoops or jump ropes like we saw in the Philippines. They work. They carry stuff. They go to school. I don’t think they are unhappy, I just think they don’t know “FUN”.

The adults are the same way…..life is a pretty serious business. I left Primary and walked into Young Womens. The Primary President is also the Young Women President and so she assigned the girls to teach themselves. It is quite dark in this old cement building, and there is no electricity, so the girls were huddled around the window hole—no glass of course. I joined them as they read the Mia Maid manual together. The lesson was on avoiding the dangers of bad media. They have no movies, radio, magazines, books, TV, but they were valiantly reading and trying to commit to living virtuous lives and avoiding these evils. We talked about kids at school teasing them because I didn’t know how to relate this lesson to anything they could hold on to. One girl said that the kids wrote her name on the board each morning before school and listed how many people she had “eaten” that week because they call her a devil worshiper, and how hard that was for her. It is just a different world here for them. So often, our manuals are geared for American kids.

The yard behind the Church…well, everywhere around the Church, is just piles of mud, but especially so in the back. You have to cross an open space with hills of clay…wet, to get out to the bathroom. I tried to cross this with my scriptures, my bag, and a 3 ring binder in my hands…I made it ¾ the way before falling—mud all over my dress, knees, shoes….and self-confidence! The bathroom consisted of 4 stalls joined together…drop holes…but there was some paper! I’m sure I made quite a picture…tottering old woman….they watch everything we do, and the door from Sunday School looked out on the courtyard, so I’m sure it was just GREAT VIEWING!

A couple of candid shots…that I’ll remember. Sacrament had started by the time I made it back across the courtyard. There sat a little 2-3 yr old girl with her tattered dress and broken shoes, perched in the middle of the clay sitting on a brick solemnly watching my progress….

Then I slid into a seat next to Neal, and we glanced down under the chair in front of us to see the woman seated there fold her feet under her seat. Her shoe uppers were clogged with mud, but the soles were worn away, and there she sat with the bottoms uncovered--her bare feet—mud-caked. We wondered how far those feet had carried her that morning…They have such great faith under such hard, hard conditions.

Neal spoke extemporaneously. All morning during our meetings we had been blasted with a tremendously loud speaker projected from a neighboring church. They were yelling and ranting and raving…We asked what they were saying. It was much louder than anything we could create in our little building, and the kids had a hard time listening to our lessons because it was so loud. The members explained the other church had people speaking in tongues and that’s what all the clamor was about. So, when Neal spoke, he talked softly and said, “The gospel does not need to be loud, the spirit speaks with a still, small voice.” It was great!

The counselor we had taken out to preside had a meeting afterward, so we waited. During that time, we investigated a water pump on the front porch of the Church that the Church had built. It still works great. A man walked up off the street and said he was interested in the Church, so Neal met with him. It was getting close to 2-2:30. The missionaries and the Branch President back at the parent branch had warned us not to get caught out there if it started to rain, because we wouldn’t get back. As it does here every afternoon, the clouds started moving in…It can be almost immediate. I got pretty nervous and gestured to Neal to come on. He came, but the counselor was still meeting. Then we got a phone call from the elders telling us they were worried—that the rain was coming, and we needed to get out or we would be stuck there and not be able to make it. They spoke the truth!

The counselor came out as it started to rain. We thought we were not going to make it. It was like typhoon just pouring…we couldn’t see ahead of us and the deep cracks in the road were just floating. We kept praying as we skidded from one crack to another, with the truck just bouncing like you can’t believe. It seemed like it took us forever. We finally got back to where the elders and church members from the parent branch were hovering inside that building to wait out the rain.

Neal ran inside…it was pouring, so I stayed in the truck for maybe 45 minutes or an hour. It looked like it was stopping some, and Neal came out to the truck, but there was a whole horde of members with him climbing in behind him and many standing in the rain wanting a ride in the back of our covered truck. There is nothing but metal sides and bottom back there, but they wanted to ride as far as we could take them. We took off…..WRONG! Big mistake.

The road was like nothing we’ve ever experienced…nothing! I tried to get pictures, but we were lurching so badly (even going so slowly) that I couldn’t get good pictures…the cracks in the road were so bad, the truck we were following (had 2 wheels on each side …4 sides) and it couldn’t make it. We finally passed it. The potholes had water covering them so you couldn’t see how deep they were…. We were in 4 wheel drive and on a flat (supposedly) surface, and we were skidding sideways….both sides of the road were flooded with brown water so it looked like sand, but it was water…some places the water went clear across the road.

Those poor people in that tin can in the back in their Sunday clothes, I don’t know how they made it. They got out at their stops and said, “That was really rough!” Coming from those veterans, you got to know they were really getting slammed! Some places we just sank. We thought we’d never make it. The Lord really, really protected us. We finally got through…then when we got home, they hadn’t had any rain at all here in Kitale. Today, our landlady saw our pictures, and smiled wisely and said, “You are learning aren’t you!”

When we got home, we went to visit a prospective seminary student in her home, and came home and died! The Lord is surely blessing us. We just can’t tell you how much He blesses us. I really don't know how we made that!

Dedication

Cultural growth--a New World for us

9-12-10 Sunday:

It has been a day never to be forgotten for many reasons. We had President Kogo (a pioneer in the African Church and a counselor to not only this mission president but to several in the past) stay with us last night overnight. He is a very wise, kindly large Santa Claus kind of man, but sharp and astute and so spiritual. He joined the Church 14 years ago when the Church was just beginning here. His wife wanted no part of those devil worshippers. (That seems to be a common thread here.) She did not hide her children like President Ndungu’s wife did for fear they would be eaten), but she did resist strongly his involvement in the Church.

They have 6 children I believe and all are very active and those old enough have all served missions. He spent yesterday afternoon answering our questions about the Culture of Africa and how it often collides with Church culture. He is right on when you talk with him. You know sometimes people here are active, but still have some of their beliefs. Not President Kogo. He sounds like a General Authority and speaks with authority.

He talked about a comment he had made earlier yesterday morning in the Priesthood session of the Leadership Training. At that time, he spoke of how his religious dedication is going to be put to the test now because his daughter’s prospective fiancé has come with his parents to speak of a possible engagement. It is the custom here that the young man goes to his parents to declare his interest in the girl. They discuss this at length, and the parents and young man go to the girl’s parents to see if this is okay with them. Then they engage in lengthy discussion about the bride price or dowry which brings significant income to the girl’s family.

The Church culture is very much against this practice because it is such a financial burden and means couples cannot marry until they are very much older. This means that in President Kogo’s situation where they are so active in the Church, they forego this dowry, and instead have an engagement announcement get together…not really a party, but a time of celebration and announcement. Then when the date is set, President Kogo (the only Church assigned person in this area to perform weddings) will “marry” them in a small ceremony visited only by those relatives and friends who can afford to attend, and then the couple will go to South Africa (requiring passports and great expense) to be married in the Temple.

He said in the meeting, “This is a test of my testimony.” Do I live what I preach? He is such a neat man. He said once the couple are married, they will return to live in a small house by themselves—not with the in-laws, as was practiced in the past.

In the past, the bride’s mother-in-law had the rule of the new home. She told the bride what to do and when to do it, and the bride had no say. In fact, she needed to live with her mother-in-law several months (I think before the marriage) so she could be taught how to treat her husband in the way he had been raised before marriage. President Kogo said that it was very difficult for his mother when he and his wife joined the Church and began to understand that husband and wife are equal partners, and that they have equal say, and that she no longer was to be governed by her mother-in-law. He said now his mother and siblings understand and accept the new way although I don’t think they are members.

Dowries enhanced the entire bride’s extended family. The uncle got a bull, the bride’s family got 8 cows, each of the aunts got a beautiful wrap –around cloth…I can’t remember the name of it, and on and on. So, for him to walk away from all of that is a tremendous break in tradition and financial loss.

He talked of death. Africans do not embalm bodies and so the funeral must be within several days. He said in the past (not now so much) they killed a goat and took the fat from it and rubbed it on the dead person’s lips so that no curse could come out against those who were left behind.

His wife joined the Church and began to understand that husband and wife are equal partners, and that they have equal say, and that she no longer was to be governed by her mother-in-law. He said now his mother and siblings understand and accept the new way, although I don’t think they are members.

Dowries enhanced the entire bride’s extended family. The uncle got a bull, the bride’s family got 8 cows, each of the aunts got a beautiful wrap-around skirt—I can’t remember the name of it, and on and on. So, for him to walk away from all of that is a tremendous break in tradition and financial loss.

He talked of death. Africans do not embalm bodies and so the funeral must be held within several days. He said in the past (not now so much) they killed a goat and took the fat from it and rubbed it on the dead person’s lips so that no curse could come out of the mouth against those who were left behind.

Today, we went to Church and spoke to a fellow about 55 years old. His name is E.W. He comes from a polygamous family. Polygamy is common here and still practiced. His father had 4 wives and 34 children. They lived in a common compound with each wife in her own mud dwelling.

When E. W. wanted to be baptized, he had to go through an extensive questioning period to determine that he understood the Church stand against polygamy and make strong commitments to make sure that he agreed to live the standard of the Church.

E.W.is a retired military man, and very, very well-versed in both the Bible and LDS scriptures. He said his father served as a cook to a British Lieutenant, who had been given land in Africa by the King of England as a bonus for serving in the military during WWII. While he worked for this military man, his father was counseled by him to NOT enter into polygamy. The Brit told him it would bring sorrow and poverty to his family. Our lesson in Sunday School today was about Solomon being wise and foolish. E.W. said, “My father was both wise and foolish” He said everything the Brit told him was true. It brought only unhappiness and poverty for all of us because he couldn’t afford to maintain the family.

This whole discussion came about because as we greeted E.W., he mentioned that two of his brothers died within the last week. One was 67, who died from liver disease (alcoholism) and the other died from Emphysema. Then he explained only one of the two was his mother’s son.

He said his mother, the first wife, died at age 66 of female problems. She encouraged her husband to take another wife because she could only have sons. She had 7 sons and only 2 daughters (one of whom died early). In their culture it is preferred to have daughters because they bring income to the family through their dowries. WOW! That was enlightening to me.

We have run into two homes for “discarded” children. One of these homes belongs to members in one of our branches, and one is run by a non-member woman with 25 orphans, her own children, and her nephew, who is a member and has received his call to Uganda Mission. The home run by members is far out in the jungle. They have 42 children they care for. Basically, they take in any child without a home. They work communally to support themselves. I’m not sure just how all the support comes, but it is quite the place. The Church helped them with a fresh water well or some other water project to give them clean drinking. They are very active. The father has just come back into the Church and been rebaptized. They are lovely people—amazing people really! They have kids from wee ones to two young men preparing for missions and one 27 year old daughter and a married daughter as well.

Many of these kids are AIDS orphans or children left behind after the political clashes. We went into one room that was just filled with corn that the kids were husking. In another room with just rudimentary benches, we looked on the cracked old blackboard to see chemistry formulas, a young volunteer teacher was teaching—stuff we didn’t understand, but understood enough to know it was legitimate. They had no idea we were coming. They have a greenhouse and fields of maize they sell I guess. We went into dorms to see many, many beds with mosquito nets and cords hanging over the bed with ragged clothing hanging from them. These dwellings are very rudimentary…mud walls..and floors…very poor, but the children were very polite and well-mannered. They seemed to be loved and well-treated.

Anyway, we were ready to start meeting this morning, and in walked this wife from the compound (she is in her 50s…looks so much younger as they all do to us). She had walked 2 hours with 28 of these kids all dressed up in bright red sweaters. It rained and rained last night, and they had tromped through the mud to come to the meeting. They ranged in age from 4-5 to about 15 I would guess, mostly 4-8 yr olds. They stayed for the block and then were going to walk back. We were flabbergasted.

I asked where she got the sweaters—all look new. She said, “We WORK! We worked for them!” Pretty impressive. They are very reverent in Church—as all kids here. They sit alone all kids together, and never a peep!

We went into Primary…wooden, backless benches…dirt or cement floors…cement walls, very little light…the President was very enthusiastic…a woman probably my age… She led the kids in some very energetic songs…like I’ve never heard before, calling them to come to Jesus…there was a lot of clapping, but the kids really seemed to enjoy it. So much for my District Training yesterday out of the Primary Songbook, but it was enthusiastic. The children from this compound do not understand English, but the rest of the kids from the branch (the minority in this congregation) did.

So, when the President got up and said, “And now we’ll turn the rest of the time over to Sister Beecher.” It was a bit of a challenge to teach new songs and fingerplays when no one had a clue what I was saying. Then the President got up and announced, “Since the children have all walked so far, I know Elder and Sister Beecher will want to escort them home in their truck!” Right! We are not supposed to transport, plus 28 children and the Sister who brought them….I went to Neal and said, “Guess what!” He went to the branch president who explained that we would be unable to “escort” them home even though we would like to have done so. The President of the Primary then opened up a package of treats for each child and then went out for recess. The program is a little different here than at home.

I have been perplexed by the restroom facilities at this branch. By the way, we work in four branches. Only one of them has a Western toilet. But, this branch is unique. There are four outhouses all connected in a row. Two say, “ladies” on the top and two say, “Gents”. I haven’t frequented the “Gents”, but one of the “ladies” says, “Wawa” and another says “Wawa Waka” or something like that. One is a regular drop hole. The other has a tiny hole smaller than a golf ball hole. I haven’t been able to figure it out. I have trouble getting everything to work correctly for the drop hole….far less ever negotiating the golf ball variety! I haven’t been able to find anyone who could understand me or speak to me well enough to ask what it means. I just couldn’t figure out how you negotiate that one with the very small hole.

Today, I met a young 27 year old woman, who speaks very well. I asked about all of this. She explained: The church meets in a converted home. These outhouses belonged to the occupants. The “Ladies Wawa” is a “toilet for short visits and long visits” she said. The “Ladies Wawa Waka” is a bathroom. “A bathroom?” I said, “Where do they get the water?” (I’m still thinking of this as a Church…not a home!) She pointed across the grass to the Church building…”over there!” “When do they bathe?” She said, “Only when they feel dirty!” She’s looking at me like I’m dense—which I am. So, then it made sense. The one stall is for “visits”, the other—with the tiny hole, is for BATHING! It is just us dumb Westerners that don’t get it.

So, all in all…today has been a leap of cultural understanding!

Best Friends

When you go into their shops you become best friends until you don't buy their goods.

Buy Mine

If you look closely you can see the lady with the grey hair in the picture. There are actually two "Muzungos" "white people in the picture. This is on our way to Kitale with Elder & Sister Watt who have now gone home. We thought we could just stop and get a picture at the Equator. Little did we know we would be so greeted by a mob all wanting you to buy their goods. And most of the goods are the same, but they still want you to buy theirs.

At the Equator

We stopped at the Equator and got mobbed as you can see from the following picture. They did a demonstration of showing water going in opposite directions depending on which side of the Equator we were doing it. And then right on the line it would not circle. It was interesting. Of course they wanted money to do the demonstration.

At the Mission Office

Each missionary gets a picture taken in front of the Picture of Christ upon their arrival at the Mission Office.

President & Sister Broadbent

This is our first day in Kenya with our Mission President and his wife. Steven & Julie Broadbent. We had met them before we went and just love them. They are wonderful to serve with.